Last chance
The last day of Safari Surf School was upon me. Yesterday was a bit rough with the late lesson and the wind. And the wind was still blowing. Lise was determined to get me down to the beach for one last hurrah. But my ribs were killing me and my stomach mussles ached like never before. Even with the missed lessons, surfing was taking its toll on my unconditioned body.
Rusty and Irena went ahead of me as I grabbed my board. A few minutes behind, Lise and I followed. Rusty and Irena had gone down the beach to the south, and area Lise didn't particulary like, but we joined them. We immediately paddled to the outside. We waited for waves. I paddled in front of my first wave and caught it, but I slipped upon getting up on my board and I went crashing down in the surf. I got back up and paddled back out. Then I tried to catch another wave. It broke early and smashed over me. I was thrust deeper in the water than I thought, and when I thought I should be up at the top I shook my head, and I then could tell I was still under water. I swam up a bit more, but I was still below water. This was wierd. I made another attempt to get to the top of the water and finally made it. I wouldn't say I had hit panic stage, but I was getting close. That was the longest it has ever taken me to rise from the depths of the ocean, surfing or body surfing. And I've been smashed pretty well while body surfing.
After my recovery, Lise had us paddle north a bit. Just what I needed as my body really began to ache. I attempted a few more waves, but just didn't have the strength anymore. My last day in the surf would be a dissappointment, especially considering a photographer was there, snapping shots of us students at the end of the week. In retrospect, I guess my best surfing day was Thursday.
After getting back to casa Tucan I gathered my things, said my good-byes and Tyler and Arlene drove me to the airport. My flight was late, so we drank a few beers at the shack of a restaurant next to the airport. Tyler offered me a discount to come back another time. I think I may, but if I do I will sandwich surf school between some RR at other more populated beaches to the north and south.
Rusty and Irena went ahead of me as I grabbed my board. A few minutes behind, Lise and I followed. Rusty and Irena had gone down the beach to the south, and area Lise didn't particulary like, but we joined them. We immediately paddled to the outside. We waited for waves. I paddled in front of my first wave and caught it, but I slipped upon getting up on my board and I went crashing down in the surf. I got back up and paddled back out. Then I tried to catch another wave. It broke early and smashed over me. I was thrust deeper in the water than I thought, and when I thought I should be up at the top I shook my head, and I then could tell I was still under water. I swam up a bit more, but I was still below water. This was wierd. I made another attempt to get to the top of the water and finally made it. I wouldn't say I had hit panic stage, but I was getting close. That was the longest it has ever taken me to rise from the depths of the ocean, surfing or body surfing. And I've been smashed pretty well while body surfing.
After my recovery, Lise had us paddle north a bit. Just what I needed as my body really began to ache. I attempted a few more waves, but just didn't have the strength anymore. My last day in the surf would be a dissappointment, especially considering a photographer was there, snapping shots of us students at the end of the week. In retrospect, I guess my best surfing day was Thursday.
After getting back to casa Tucan I gathered my things, said my good-byes and Tyler and Arlene drove me to the airport. My flight was late, so we drank a few beers at the shack of a restaurant next to the airport. Tyler offered me a discount to come back another time. I think I may, but if I do I will sandwich surf school between some RR at other more populated beaches to the north and south.
posted by Leroy at
3:59 PM
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